News

Vendor City Guide: Osaka

Street secrets revealed by the people who know them best. This week we head to Osaka with Big Issue Japan vendor Susumu Hamada

Our guide this week: Susumu Hamada is Osaka-born and raised. He leads walking tours in the downtown area and sells The Big Issue Japan on the pedestrian bridge in front of the Umeda (Osaka) station. “Come chat – I’ll let you know how to have some fun in Osaka,” he says.

My top tourist tip

Get advice from the locals

Osaka has so many rivers and bridges that it has long been called ‘Water City’ and ‘Happyaku-yabashi,’ meaning 808 bridges. If you’re in the city, try getting tips from people on the street rather than from a guidebook. Osakans are friendly, kind, and will be happy to help you out. I think the essence of Osaka is the warmth of its people.

My favourite spot

Nakanoshima

You just can’t beat Nakanoshima (20 minutes from Osaka station on foot). Both Osaka City Central Public Hall and Osaka Prefectural Nakanoshima Library were built around 100 years ago and have grand and old-fashioned architecture. Back then, Osaka had a booming textile industry and was called the ‘Manchester of the Orient’. Looking at these buildings, you can imagine how the city was thriving. You can tell I’m a real Osakan because I like being reminded of the good old days, which we call the ‘Big Osaka’ era because this city was the largest in Japan, surpassing even Tokyo. Nakanoshima is where Osaka’s merchants got started; it’s like the spiritual birthplace of all Osakans.

Where to eat

Umeda Hanshin Hyakka-ten

We have a saying: Ki-daore (go broke buying fine clothes) in Kyoto, kui-daore (go broke eating and drinking) in Osaka. So visitors here should eat well. I recommend you visit the Umeda Hanshin Hyakka-ten department store basement, because many kinds of food are sold there, including grilled squid and meat buns. There are even standing-room-only food stalls, so it’s great for getting a quick bite. Get a takeout walking a little way from Osaka station and eat in the spacious Utsubo Park.

Vendor City Guide Osaka map
Osaka-map-final

Best-kept secret

Kagaya Shinden Kaishoato

I don’t think many people know about the Kagaya Shinden Kaishoato, an Edo-era estate, near Suminoe Park (30 minutes from Osaka Station by train, entry is free). There are almost no visitors, and you can relax there for two or three quiet hours. The estate’s land was reclaimed from the river over 250 years ago, back when there were still samurai in Osaka. You can go inside the old estate and learn how people lived back then through seeing its kitchen and other rooms.

Best time to visit

Spring/autumn

It’s no surprise, but I think it’s best to come see the spring cherry blossoms or the autumn leaves. The riverbanks near Osaka Castle are lined with cherry trees. Enjoying the blossoms while sitting under the trees that surround the castle keep is simply the best. In autumn, I really recommend seeing the Japanese maple leaves in Minoo Park (one hour by train from Osaka station). Try to make it to Minoo Falls, which can be reached by a roughly one-hour hiking trail. And don’t forget to eat the park’s famous dish, maple leaf tempura! You might even see a monkey if you’re lucky.

Interview: Sayuri Kusama
Translated by Annelise Giseburt
With thanks to The Big Issue Japan

READ ALL OF OUR VENDOR CITY GUIDES HERE

Support the Big Issue

For over 30 years, the Big Issue has been committed to ending poverty in the UK. In 2024, our work is needed more than ever. Find out how you can support the Big Issue today.
Vendor martin Hawes

Recommended for you

View all
Care worker faced homelessness as low pay left her with 'nothing' to fall back on
social care/ abbie bowler
Social care

Care worker faced homelessness as low pay left her with 'nothing' to fall back on

Housing crisis: Shared ownership an 'unbearable reality' which has 'failed to deliver', MPs warn
Housing

Housing crisis: Shared ownership an 'unbearable reality' which has 'failed to deliver', MPs warn

Most tenants have never heard of the beleaguered Renters Reform Bill
Renters and the Renters Reform Bill
Renting

Most tenants have never heard of the beleaguered Renters Reform Bill

'Job apocalypse': Up to 8 million Brits risk losing their jobs to AI, government warned
Employment

'Job apocalypse': Up to 8 million Brits risk losing their jobs to AI, government warned

Most Popular

Read All
Renters pay their landlords' buy-to-let mortgages, so they should get a share of the profits
Renters: A mortgage lender's window advertising buy-to-let products
1.

Renters pay their landlords' buy-to-let mortgages, so they should get a share of the profits

Exclusive: Disabled people are 'set up to fail' by the DWP in target-driven disability benefits system, whistleblowers reveal
Pound coins on a piece of paper with disability living allowancve
2.

Exclusive: Disabled people are 'set up to fail' by the DWP in target-driven disability benefits system, whistleblowers reveal

Here's when UK households to start receiving last cost of living payments
next dwp cost of living payment 2023
3.

Here's when UK households to start receiving last cost of living payments

Strike dates 2023: From train drivers to NHS doctors, here are the dates to know
4.

Strike dates 2023: From train drivers to NHS doctors, here are the dates to know