News

'It reminds people of home': Ainsley Harriott on how food unifies people

Sweet potatoes, mangoes and yams – the TV chef says Windrush changed all of our kitchens for the better

I think people came here expecting that Britain’s streets would be paved with gold – you’d arrive here and everything would be given to you, handed to you on a plate. It wasn’t like that at all.

But I think the thing that really bought people together was food. Food was a great way of reminding people of home. A lot of the time they weren’t able to get hold of the produce.

I do remember growing up as a young child eating things like mangoes that my auntie had wrapped in her clothing. It was wrapped in private clothes hoping that customs wouldn’t go through stuff like that. But they would be able to sneak in things like mangoes, coming from the Caribbean, which tasted like nothing I’d ever tasted before. It was extraordinary.

Food brought people together in places like London, Bristol and Liverpool, where it was highly populated by black people. Suddenly there was demand for their type of food. So you were able to walk down the road in London and go to Ron – I remember what he was like. “Alright love, lovely bit of yam here” – sometimes they were rotten but he would just chop off the rotten bit and give you the rest.

We all take sweet potatoes for granted now but the reality is that people used to look at it and ask if it was the same as what we could call the English or Irish potato back then. The sweet potato was completely alien.

Read more from Harriott about why immigration made everyone’s plates tastier in this week’s Big Issue, available from your local vendor until Sunday

Support the Big Issue

For over 30 years, the Big Issue has been committed to ending poverty in the UK. In 2024, our work is needed more than ever. Find out how you can support the Big Issue today.
Vendor martin Hawes

Recommended for you

View all
Village of 'beautiful homes' for homeless people to be built in Lanarkshire by Social Bite
Social Bite Josh Littlejohn
Homelessness

Village of 'beautiful homes' for homeless people to be built in Lanarkshire by Social Bite

Lesbian Visibility Week: There's 'enormous power' in being a lesbian – but stigma and shame persist
Lesbian Visibility Week

Lesbian Visibility Week: There's 'enormous power' in being a lesbian – but stigma and shame persist

Who owns the moon? How the lunar frontier could become the new Wild West 
Environment

Who owns the moon? How the lunar frontier could become the new Wild West 

Here's what happened when 1,000 smartphones and tablets were given to homeless people
Simon Community Scotland using devices to tackle digital inclusion and homelessness
Digital inclusion

Here's what happened when 1,000 smartphones and tablets were given to homeless people

Most Popular

Read All
Renters pay their landlords' buy-to-let mortgages, so they should get a share of the profits
Renters: A mortgage lender's window advertising buy-to-let products
1.

Renters pay their landlords' buy-to-let mortgages, so they should get a share of the profits

Exclusive: Disabled people are 'set up to fail' by the DWP in target-driven disability benefits system, whistleblowers reveal
Pound coins on a piece of paper with disability living allowancve
2.

Exclusive: Disabled people are 'set up to fail' by the DWP in target-driven disability benefits system, whistleblowers reveal

Cost of living payment 2024: Where to get help now the scheme is over
next dwp cost of living payment 2023
3.

Cost of living payment 2024: Where to get help now the scheme is over

Strike dates 2023: From train drivers to NHS doctors, here are the dates to know
4.

Strike dates 2023: From train drivers to NHS doctors, here are the dates to know